How to Build a Shed Foundation

How to Build a Shed Foundation

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A long lasting shed will need a sturdy foundation
to keep it level and protect it from moisture. Follow these steps to build your shed foundation. Before you begin, check local building codes
or homeowner’s association guidelines for any requirements on foundation types, frost
lines, and location specs in your yard. Pick a spot for your shed that’s close to
level and doesn’t collect water. It’s also good to have 3 feet of clearance around
the perimeter. When you have your location, mark the shed
area with masons string and stakes. To square it, measure 3 feet along one string, and 4
feet along the adjacent string. The distance between the two points should be 5 feet. Adjust
as needed. You can build your foundation several ways.
On grade foundations are for areas that don’t freeze. One option is to pour a concrete slab,
and install sill plates on top with adhesive and concrete screws. Then set the floor frame. Other options use 4×4 timbers—also known
as skids or runners—with the frame on top. It’s best to mark the runner locations on
the strings for easier layout. Here are a few methods using timbers. The first is another on grade foundation.
Set masonry blocks on gravel about 4 inches deep. (Don’t pile the gravel above the holes–it’ll
shift.) Use different size blocks to level the 4×4 timbers, and roofing shingles for
fine adjustments. The next methods are for permanent foundations
in frost areas–the footers are set below the frost line to prevent shifting during
freezing temperatures. (You’ll need additional strings and stakes
to line up post holes.) For the concrete tube method, pour gravel
into the holes, then insert the concrete tube forms. The tops should be above ground and
even. Add concrete, and insert post base brackets. Make sure they’re lined up and let the concrete
cure. Finally, attach the 4x4s to the brackets. The last method uses posts set in the holes.
Dig holes about 4 feet apart, 12 inches in diameter, and 12 inches below the frost line.
Pour about 4-6 inches of gravel in the hole, compact it with a post, then add concrete
following the manufacturer’s directions. Once the concrete has cured, set a post on
top of the footer. Make sure the post is plumb, and hold it with stakes. Now add gravel around
the sides to allow for drainage. After all the posts are set, determine the
height you want for your shed floor and mark one post. Use this as a guide to mark the
other posts with a chalk line and level, and cut with a saw.
Then attach post base brackets and 4x4s. Next, build the frame with 2x4s and nails
according to the directions. Set the frame on the 4x4s, leaving about 1
foot over hanging the ends, and attach one side to each 4×4 with one screw.
Check for square by measuring the diagonals–they should be the same. Make any adjustments and
secure the other side of the frame to the 4x4s. Then use screws to secure the frame
at each point that contacts the 4x4s. The floor panels go on next. Set a floor panel
at the corner of the frame, flush to the edges. Nail down the short edge, and check the frame
for square one more time. Make any final adjustments and nail down the rest of the plywood. Attach
the other floor panels according to the directions and check for level. With the foundation set you’re ready to
build the shed. Kits come with detailed instructions to do it yourself, or have it professionally
installed. Want more great ideas and how-to’s? Go to or just click to subscribe. Next, learn how to install French doors and
skylights in your shed.


  1. FYI many DYI's simply strip sod and place the skids right on the soil. I don't think bearing capacity is a problem and they're willing to live with a little freeze thaw heave.

  2. Wouldn't it be better if you didn't put that first layer of concrete over the stone you compact at the bottom of the hole? I would think that when you surround the post at the bottom with more concrete, the bottom of the post would be all but sealed in concrete. Directly onto the compacted stone seems more logical for drainage.

  3. Those holes were dug with an gas powered post hole digger/auger; not with a hand-held post hole digger as shown in the video.

  4. those are kind of 16" centre, but not the way I would frame a wall 16" centre. going to run in to problems when decking

  5. What a waste. Those posts won't last very long. They are completely encased in concrete. Moisture will get trapped at the bottom of the post and will rot over time.

    Next time, make your entire footing and post out of concrete, and sit your floor on that.

  6. Of course Lowe's would include the most amount of stuff to buy in their instructional video. "Don't forget the gravel, or the post hole digger, and the brackets, and the kobalt gloves, and the guy standing out front with his tool belt and a lunch box slap full of cervezas."

  7. What an ODD way to make a foundation mounting! The pressure-impregnated cut-off post IN the ground can absorb water, freeze then split making the whole thing 'rocky', here In europe we use precast concrete round or square/tapered fundament blocks that have galvanised steel hardware and threaded adjusters with iether "L" or "U" fixings for a stable, stormproof footing.

  8. Common mistake: Posts shouldn't be directly in holes. Should be on top of pillars. Direct contact with environment eventually cause roten and decay.

  9. I thought I could do this myself, I don't have to time to learn building codes. And my wife wants a tree house too? Why did she marry a computer geek again?

  10. I was told yesterday by a lowes representative, when they come to install the shed, they don't do anything to the floor. What about my foundation. and why is it so expensive for them to paint the shed?

  11. 2100k shed DIY, 2800k for professional installation, extra 600.0 for paint.. painting yourself would cost 1/10 of that price

  12. Nice video!
    I built a shed foundation over the weekend and attached the flooring only to find out that it is not square by 2 inches. Is life over?

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